Antisemitism in France

Someone has asked me my impressions of Antisemitism in France. It's a subject that was discussed a lot within our group. To be honest, I had been warned by family to be careful there, and so I felt I had to walk around with my Magen David tucked in, not showing it to the world like I am used to.

That being said, one night I was walking on the Champs Elysees with a bunch of fellow participants and two frenchmen who had hosted us for dinner. One had a black velvet kippa on and his tzitzit hanging out. All seemed fine, until we happened upon some Muslims hanging out on a bench there. Picture this, about 15 of us walking in a group. I am at the back with the guy with the kippa and tzitzit, (he is the only one - everyone else had hats or no head covering at all). All of a sudden I notice the Israeli guys amongst us, get this look in their eyes - one turns to look at me and my new French friend, he is protecting us, the others are watching the Muslims. It seems as if the Muslims made some comment and my Israeli friends were concerned they may try something. I had no idea the interaction with our Muslim cousins had transpired at all, all I knew was something happened to make my friends come and protect us.

It was an eye opening moment. I can not remember a time when I was the direct target of an Anti-Semitic remark, I do remember my father telling me stories of the KKK coming to his door, and I understood then how important it was to protect ourselves. This moment in France reminded me of this. There are times when we forget how easy it is to become a target. We forget how easy it is for someone to hate us. We take our freedoms for granted, and live in comfortable bubbles. But we need to remember that bubbles pop. We need to protect ourselves - we need to stand up for Israel - this is the only way we as Jews will ever be safe. Don't forget - Theodore Herzl thought if he became enough of an Austrian he would be accepted. The Dreyfus trial (which took place in Paris), showed him otherwise. Here was an assimilated Jew, a high ranking officer in the French Army - and the reaction to his (false) conviction was thousands of Frenchmen screaming "Death to the Jews". If it happened to him, don't you think it could happen to you too?

(sculpture of Dreyfus being demoted in the French Army)

Yom Ha'Atzmaut in......

Budapest! We woke up this morning to find out we will not be able to make it to Israel in time for Yom Ha'Atzmaut. This is a sad development for everyone in the program, but we are making the most of it. The bright side is I got to do some sight seeing of the city. I went to the market for souvenir shopping, saw the Danube River, and the castle. Breathtaking. We also watched the movie Blessed is the Match about Hannah Senesh. It was quite moving. For Yom Ha'Atzmaut, we all took a boat ride at sunset on the Danube. It was beautiful setting, and a lot of fun. There was singing and dancing, and everyone was happy. After the boat ride we went to the  - not officially opened yet- Israel Cultural Center (we gave that place quite the inauguration this weekend!). there we had a Ceremony for Yom Ha'Atzmaut with felafel, and singing and dancing afterwards.

The more I thought about being stuck here the more I realized the importance of being here today. It is disappointing to me that I missed the ceremony on Har Herzl, (which by the way we had center stage tickets!), but here I am celebrating Israel's independence day in the birthplace of Theordor Herzl, in a city that has known a lot of Anti Semitism. We are still here, alive and well, celebrating our nation, our people. Theodor Herzl never had that opportunity and here we were over 100 zionists celebrating for him, because of him.

Mazal Tov! Chag Sameach!

Shabbat in Budapest

Shabbat in Budapest. Friday night davening and dinner at the hotel. After the Israeli Ambassador to Hungary, Aviva Bar On, spoke. She was quite informative and I enjoyed hearing from her. She spoke of the relations between Hungary and Israel, and that Hungary actually voted consistently for Israel in the UN and other international agencies. For instance, they were against the Goldstone report.

After she spoke we had a session with all members of the trip. Through an activity we discussed out identities and how that defines us. I may have to bring it back and use it in the classroom!

In the morning I arranged to go to an orthodox synagogue, as the Dohanny synagogue where our trip was going is Reform. In Hungary that means though the men and women sit separate, there is an organ and choir made up of Non Jewish women.

I walked with two friends to the Deswiffey synagogue. There were actually 3 orthodox shuls to chose from, this was the first on the list. When we arrived this old man came out to welcome us. He was so happy to see us. He guided my friends (they are men) to the inner sanctuary where all the men sat, and then he pointed to a table in the foyer next to the sanctuary and said 'ladies here'. There were three chairs. I sat and started to daven. I peeked in the synagogue and noticed the beautiful corinthian columns, the detailed Aron Hakodesh. A chill went down my spine. I noticed all around me were old men, these men had survived the Holocaust and I was davening on Shabbat with them. I could picture how vibrant the synagogue must have been in the late 1800's and early 1900's. How beautiful it must have been when it was first built. I saw all the pews (even the ones upstairs, that were really meant for the ladies), filled up with Jews who are no longer here to daven. My prayer became more intense. I cried for what was lost, and also for what we still have. When you think about it, it's miraculous there are still so many shuls in Budapest. There is still a living Jewish community here. The Nazis did not win here. No the community is not even close to being as vibrant as it once was, but at least it is still here.

After davening they invited us to stay for Kiddush, but we had to leave as our group was meeting at the Dohanny synagogue for lunch. Lunch was in the Jewish Museum attached the the synagogue. The museum us actually on the spot where Theodor Herzl was born. It was a very elegant kiddush lunch and there were women from WIZO from all over the world who joined us. I met one from Slovenia, (never met a Jew from Slovenia before), and one from Budapest. This woman is also a survivor. Her daughter actually lives in Silver Spring. I was amazed at this woman's positive and happy attitude to the world. It was an honor to meet her.

After lunch we had a two hour walking tour of Jewish Budapest. Our guide was a woman who grew up here and didn't know she was Jewish until she was 16. It was only after she was married with 2 children that she decided she didn't want to practice law anymore, so she moved to Israel for a year by herself to learn more about Judaism, Israel and Hebrew. She now is a tour guide in Budapest.

After our tour we went to the Israel Cultural Center and had a session there on different philosophies of Zionism, (yet another good lesson to bring home). We then went back to the hotel - for seuda shlisheet, havdala and then a night on the town. We had our options, my friends and I chose a coffehouse that has 3 levels. the top two is a quiet cafe, the basement is where a band plays. The music was a cross of punk rock and klezmer. I could not understand the words at all (though I believe the singer said Washington DC and mazal tov), but it was really fun.

 Budapest is rich with history and I have enjoyed being here - but I am ready to go to Israel.

Whose plan is it?

Boy what one day can do. I know I have a lot to catch you up on, but I figured I will start with today and work my way backwards. There is a saying Man Plans and G-d Laughs.

You probably know by now that there is a big volcanic ash cloud over most of Europe, since last week. We had planned on leaving Budapest early this morning for a flight to Israel. However, due to the cloud, Europe Air Space is closed for business, which means we can not get a flight out of Budapest. This morning I came down to breakfast at 9:30 am to hear that we are not sure how we are going to get to Israel, if we are going to get there at all, and that we will know more at 1pm. The only thing we did know for sure, was that we would not be making our flight to Israel today and thus we will not be in Israel to commemorate Yom HaZikaron (Memorial Day) there.

This change of plan had me quite agitated. I go to Israel practically every summer, but it has been 19 years since I was there to commemorate Yom HaZikaron and then celebrate the next day Yom Ha'Atzmaut. I have been looking forward to this for the entire trip. This was the climax and now I am going to miss it because of some volcanic ash cloud? Seriously?

We were asked to make committees to create a ceremony for Yom HaZikaron, that we were to put on tonight for the rest of the participants of the program. I went to help out (I have had a few years experience in organizing such an event), and while we were talking it hit me. I will not be in Israel for Yom HaZikaron.

I started to cry. All around me, my fellow program participants, asked me if I was ok. I couldn't describe to them how I felt. I wasn't crying because we weren't going to Israel - as we will - soon (I hope), and even if we didn't get to Israel and I had to fly back to Maryland from here, I was ok - because I know I am going to be in Israel in July for 6 weeks!

So why was I crying? Because there is nothing like being part of the country, part of the nation as they go from mourning our loved ones who have been killed in battle, terrorist attacks, training excercises and the like to celebrating the birth and survival of the country and nation. I missed that feeling and was so looking forward to being a part of it again. I was looking forward to sharing that with you.

I tired to see the reason why this happened - but couldn't see one. A wise person on the program said she believes its because we probably needed to spend this holiday together here - and as much as I did agree with what she said, I just couldn't quite feel it.


At 1pm, we were told we would be taking a 30 hour bus ride to Athens Greece, (you read right), and from there on Tuesday morning we would get an ElAl flight to Tel Aviv. We were to meet in the lobby at 4 pm with our bags, and we would do our ceremony at 7pm and leave by 10pm. I rushed to finish packing my bags and ran out to find some water and snacks to bring for what was to be a long ride. When we got back to the hotel at 3:30 we were told - another change come back at 6. At 6 we were told let's go to the ceremony we are staying here tonight. To make a long story shorter - we are supposed to be flying from Budapest this morning - but its been delayed twice already so stay tuned!

In the meantime, I went to the ceremony and it was really special. After the ceremony we broke up into groups and discussed what does Yom HaZikaron mean to me (not me myself, but me as in everyone). Then when we came back together we heard from a Commander in the army. He told us the story of Uri Grossman, the son of Michal and David Grossman (the author). This commander is friends with the Grossmans, their son, Uri, was in a tank unit when his unit was attacked and he died in the Lebanon War in 2006. After hearing his touching story, the Bostoner Rebbe came by. He happened to be visitng Hungary and wanted to meet us and give us a message on this auspicious day. This is the Bostoner Rebbe who live in Har Nof, Jerusalem. I must say he spoke really well - his message was one of loving and accepting each Jew for who they are. Being thankful for having our soldiers and reminding us that anyone who has died for our country is Kadosh, holy.

It is now 2:30 am. I am beat. It's been a long day - who would have thought I would ever have celebrated Yom HaZikaron in Budapest, Hungary, with the Bostoner Rebbe? Go figure! Hashem Plans and I laugh.

Sorry - only a little time...

I had every intention of writing every day, but we left Paris early Thursday morning for Switzerland and after a full day of events we traveled overnight by train to Austria, (which will be an entire blog post on its own!). This is the first time since I was in my room in Paris on Tuesday night that I have jad access to the internet. I apologize.

I will leave you with one experience I had yesterday in Basel, Switzerland - as I mentioned we left our hotel in Paris and took a bus to the train station. Aboard the train - we had a three and a half hour ride to Basel Switzerland. I sat with 3 partners and we discussed issues of Zionism today. It was a pretty intense discussion, and before we knew it - we had another group of 4 join in on our conversation and then another pair. It kept on getting larger and larger - it was quite exciting and what was most amazing of all is how passionate we all are about Zionism. How much we love Israel, Judaism and how this motivates us to want to define our issues and find solutions to them! This is the true purpose of our trip.

Anyway - once we got to Basel we boarded a bus to downtown Basel. It is a very small town, so it was not far. We walked a few blocks until we reached the casino. No I did not go gamble. It actually has no gambling. It is a concert hall - but once upon a time it was where the FIRST zionist congress was held in 1897. We heard the details of how that day in 1897 came about, we had Israel's Ambassador To Switzerland, the head of JNF, the president of WIZO (Womens International Zionist Orgainzation) speak to us, (to name a few). As i listened to the speaches, I couldn't help but reflect at what this moment meant to me. Never in my life would I have dreamed I would be standing the this spot. In Switzerland, in Basel, in the Casino, and all in honor of Theodor Herzl. As I was thinking, we all stood to sing Hatikva. I started to sing, as did the other 120 particpants in the program. I looked up and saw the Israeli flag, and could feel Theodor Herzl there. I imagined him standing there in 1897 and how he would have felt if he could have seen us singing. I felt the impact of that day in 1897 and as I sang I started to cry. I had to stop singing - even if I didn't want to - as I knew if I kept singing I would have a puddle of water, by my feet, in a matter of seconds. It actually took me until the end of the song to compose myself. It was a moment I will never forget.

There is SO much to tell you, and I have even received some suggestions (Thank you!), but I have a half hour until Shabbat and I must get ready. I promise I will fill you in on more details and answer your suggestions too (Phil - yours was an excellent one!), just be patient - we leave for Israel on Sunday and supposedly I will have free time there.


Shabbat Shalom.

Through the eyes of a child

As we were walking through Paris today - I was thinking about how fascinating this city is. The architecture is exquisite, the history is remarkable, and the energy is calm. There is so much to see - from tourist sites, like the museums, Notre Dame, gorgeous parks, and then add to it the Jewish information. We walked for 4 hours straight - no breaks, no sitting down, and it was fabulous. I reaalized the reason why I wasn't tire, cranky, bored was because as 'Bodi' (a Dor Hemshech participant), put it, I was looking at the city through a child's eyes. Seeing it for the first time. Have you ever watched a toddler notice their shadow (or someone else's for that matter)? They can chase after the shadow for a long time before they get bored and give up trying to catch it. Paris is magical - that there is no doubt, but today was extra magical for me.

Our 4 hour walk through Paris took us from our hotel to many many places. Instead of going through each place I am going to just sum up for you some of the highlights today.

I learned about Montaigne - he was a writer and philosopher. His contribution to the writing world is what we call the essay. That's right. He lived in the 17th century, and it is rumored that he was a Marrano (a Jew who converted to Christianity but secretly practiced Judaism).

I was reminded that the history of the Jews in France is: The kings need money - so they kick the Jews out of their country, and take their money from them. When the money they took from the Jews is gone, the kings let the Jews back in, and the cycle repeats.

We went to the Jewish Museum, and then to a synagogue and heard from the Rabbi all about religious life in France. After that we were allowed to have lunch in the Jewish quarter. As I sat down to eat felafel (what else would I eat in Paris for lunch?), I see my husband's Uncle Maurice and Aunt Dena walk by. They live in Paris and it was such a surprise and treat to see them.

After lunch we walked to the Memorial De La Shoah (Holocaust Memorial - though the French do not use the word Holocaust for the Shoah - only Shoah). At the Shoah Memorial there is a wall with the names of the 76,000 Jews that were rounded up and deported. I searched the wall and found a name of a woman I believe may be related to my Mother in Law, I have to ask her...

At the Memorial we had a panel of dignitaries speaking to us, Including the Head of the Zionist Organization of France, the Israeli ambassador to France, and a former Israeli ambassador to France who is now the head of WZO - Avi Pazner. It was thought provoking and inspiring. I am still processing it, and will delve into that more at a later time.

After we went back to the hotel and had 30 minutes to get ready for the Opera. The Pasteur Institue (It's for Science Research) and the Weizman Institute in Israel have a partnership of sorts and they had a gala evening at the Opera that we were invited to. As we drove up to the Opera house, we saw flying high on the rooftop, both the French and Israeli flags. What a sight. Surrounding the periphery was the onlookers and paprazzi! I felt like I was at a Hollywood premiere only better! My friend told me she saw my Uncle and Aunt amongst the spectators across the street - so I ran to them to give them one more kiss goodbye. I want to tell you more, but I am running out of time so I will write more tomorrow - I promise to tell you everything about this experience.

In conclusion, it was great seeing Paris through the eyes of a child. Now its bedtime. Au Revoir.

Almost Speechless - Almost!

Its been a whirlwind day, or two, I've lost track of time. All I know is I landed at the aiport at 7:45 am Tuesday. It is now 2 am Wednesday (8pm Tuesday in the East Coast) and I have slept 2 hours since Saturday night.

After I landed, I was supposed to meet a shuttle bus that would take me to the hotel I am staying at for the first 2 nights. The shuttle showed up at 10:50. At first it was disappointing as I was hoping to have my one free morning to see the city on my own. My 5 hour window was now down to two.

I got to the hotel - my room was not ready, so a guy on the program from Baltimore, who happened to arrive at the same time told me of a kosher tunisian restaraunt a few blocks away. He and I walked there and have a lovely lunch. French food (well this was actually Tunisian food cooked in France) is all its cracked up to be, delicious and fine.

After lunch, I got my room, and then immediately I had to leave with the group. We went to the UJF building - where we did some ice breakers to get to know the other participants already there. UJF is the equivalent of the UJA (United Jewish Appeal). We also met the head of the social services programing there and I learned that because France is a welfare state - the government gives the UJF 100 million Euro (that's 150 MILLION DOLLARS!!) for their social/welfare programs. The Jewish community donates 5-10 million Euro on top. Also, the government gives them 70 million Euro (again that's over 100 million dollars), for the Jewish Schools, which by the way they have 33,000 students.

We then got on a bus with a famous French historian and the Israeli contingency who had come straight from the airport. All in all we are 45 particiapnts. I will tell you more about the participants in a later blog.

The historian took us all over Paris - with him we saw - a statue of Alfred Dreyfus  being demoted from the army. (You know, the guy who was on trial for treason - that Theodore Herzl covered as a journalist - which some say is the reason he became so passionate about having a state for the Jews.) Then we walked a few blocks and saw a statue of Madamme Rothschild - of the Rothschild family fame. We got back on the bus and headed to Ecole Miliitare - which is where the actual demoting of Dreyfus took place. It was a pretty intense event here in Paris - thousands came to see him be humiliated - the ceremony is a ceremony for any demoted solider - but becasue he was Jewish it was a much bigger deal and there was a huge crowd. We saw many other of interest to Jews sites - a lot that deals with the Holocaust too - I kept thinking about that book - 'Sarah's Key'. We drove all around the city from the bus I saw L'Arc De Triumphe, and more. I am sure I am leaving stuff out - but you get the gist.

Across from Ecole is The Eiffel Tower!! So I got my 1st up front view of it. We then went to the last Jewish Community Club in Paris, where people can come and learn, have youth group activities, and the like. There we did ice breakers with the Israelis - and then we went off to dinner with a local french person. After dinner we walked Champs Elysses (it's a very wide boulevard with expensive stores) and then we walked back to the Eiffel Tower and took a night boat ride on the Seine. We navigated the Metro, which by the way is so clean! And now we are at the hotel. I have to wake up in 4 hours, so I am going to go to sleep now, but before I do - 4 things:

1: I forgot to tell you the coolest thing - I got blessed and have my own room tonight! I get a roomie tommorow - but at least for tonight I get to watch tv, blog, and not worry about keeping someone else up!

2: I appologize if I rambled too much on this one - chalk it up to major exhaustion.

3: I took pictures as we walked today for you guys, but I forgot my cable to connect it to the computer - I hope to borrow one from another particiapnt soon.

and last but not least - 4: Please comment with any questions you may have for me, or if you want to hear more about something I havent told you about - I really want you to feel as if you are right here with me.

Bonne Nuit;