Shabbat in Budapest

Shabbat in Budapest. Friday night davening and dinner at the hotel. After the Israeli Ambassador to Hungary, Aviva Bar On, spoke. She was quite informative and I enjoyed hearing from her. She spoke of the relations between Hungary and Israel, and that Hungary actually voted consistently for Israel in the UN and other international agencies. For instance, they were against the Goldstone report.

After she spoke we had a session with all members of the trip. Through an activity we discussed out identities and how that defines us. I may have to bring it back and use it in the classroom!

In the morning I arranged to go to an orthodox synagogue, as the Dohanny synagogue where our trip was going is Reform. In Hungary that means though the men and women sit separate, there is an organ and choir made up of Non Jewish women.

I walked with two friends to the Deswiffey synagogue. There were actually 3 orthodox shuls to chose from, this was the first on the list. When we arrived this old man came out to welcome us. He was so happy to see us. He guided my friends (they are men) to the inner sanctuary where all the men sat, and then he pointed to a table in the foyer next to the sanctuary and said 'ladies here'. There were three chairs. I sat and started to daven. I peeked in the synagogue and noticed the beautiful corinthian columns, the detailed Aron Hakodesh. A chill went down my spine. I noticed all around me were old men, these men had survived the Holocaust and I was davening on Shabbat with them. I could picture how vibrant the synagogue must have been in the late 1800's and early 1900's. How beautiful it must have been when it was first built. I saw all the pews (even the ones upstairs, that were really meant for the ladies), filled up with Jews who are no longer here to daven. My prayer became more intense. I cried for what was lost, and also for what we still have. When you think about it, it's miraculous there are still so many shuls in Budapest. There is still a living Jewish community here. The Nazis did not win here. No the community is not even close to being as vibrant as it once was, but at least it is still here.

After davening they invited us to stay for Kiddush, but we had to leave as our group was meeting at the Dohanny synagogue for lunch. Lunch was in the Jewish Museum attached the the synagogue. The museum us actually on the spot where Theodor Herzl was born. It was a very elegant kiddush lunch and there were women from WIZO from all over the world who joined us. I met one from Slovenia, (never met a Jew from Slovenia before), and one from Budapest. This woman is also a survivor. Her daughter actually lives in Silver Spring. I was amazed at this woman's positive and happy attitude to the world. It was an honor to meet her.

After lunch we had a two hour walking tour of Jewish Budapest. Our guide was a woman who grew up here and didn't know she was Jewish until she was 16. It was only after she was married with 2 children that she decided she didn't want to practice law anymore, so she moved to Israel for a year by herself to learn more about Judaism, Israel and Hebrew. She now is a tour guide in Budapest.

After our tour we went to the Israel Cultural Center and had a session there on different philosophies of Zionism, (yet another good lesson to bring home). We then went back to the hotel - for seuda shlisheet, havdala and then a night on the town. We had our options, my friends and I chose a coffehouse that has 3 levels. the top two is a quiet cafe, the basement is where a band plays. The music was a cross of punk rock and klezmer. I could not understand the words at all (though I believe the singer said Washington DC and mazal tov), but it was really fun.

 Budapest is rich with history and I have enjoyed being here - but I am ready to go to Israel.